Lucien Bérardini's Life and Climbing Achievements
Born on September 24, 1930, in Martigues, France, Lucien Bérardini was a French mountaineer who made a significant impact in the climbing world. He learned the art of climbing on the rocks of the forest of Fontainebleau and the cliffs of Saussois, and went on to develop a unique style of climbing that defied conventions and rules.
Bérardini was part of the "rogue" mountaineering movement, which emerged in the post-war era as a response to the aristocratic and professional mountaineering scenes. Alongside his partner, Robert Paragot, he symbolized the spirit of amateur mountaineering, characterized by boldness, tenacity, and a desire to push boundaries.
One of Bérardini's most notable achievements was the first ascent of the west face of Les Drus on July 19, 1952, which he completed with Guido Magnone, Adrien Dagory, and Marcel Lainé. This feat was marked by the use of artificial climbing, a technique that was still relatively new at the time.
In the same year, Bérardini and Michel Dufranc made the first route without a bivouac on the Walker spur of the Grandes Jorasses, reaching an altitude of 4,208 meters. The following year, he opened a new route on the south-east face of Mont Mallet, and then joined a French expedition to the south face of Aconcagua, a 6,962-meter summit in Argentina.
Despite the success of the expedition, Bérardini suffered severe frostbite on his hands and feet, which necessitated amputations. However, he continued to climb with his friend Robert Paragot, and together they achieved many firsts in the Dolomites and the Mont-Blanc Massif.
Bérardini was not a guide, but he enjoyed leading the way and opening new routes. He took his friends Pierre Mazeaud and Robert Paragot to climb the Jonte gorges, and introduced young people to climbing on the cliffs of the Cévennes. Despite his many achievements, Bérardini was humble and did not like to be labeled, except for his willingness to be referred to as a "professional climber" and a "spokesperson for 'France from below on the summits'".
Lucien Bérardini's life and climbing achievements serve as a testament to his courage, determination, and passion for mountaineering. He left an indelible mark on the climbing world, and his legacy continues to inspire generations of climbers.
