Peter Habeler, a renowned Austrian mountaineer, was born on July 22, 1942, in Mayrhofen, Austria. As a child, he developed an interest in mountaineering at the tender age of six, which would eventually become a lifelong passion.
Habeler's impressive climbing career includes numerous first ascents in the Rockies, as well as being the first European to participate in large wall climbing in Yosemite National Park. He began climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969, and together they achieved several remarkable feats.
One of the most notable events in Habeler's career was the first ascent without supplemental oxygen of Mount Everest on May 8, 1978, alongside Messner. This monumental achievement was previously considered impossible, and it marked a significant milestone in mountaineering history.
Following his ascent of Everest, Habeler published his memoir, "Lonely Victory," in 1978. He continued to push the boundaries of mountaineering, setting records such as descending from the summit to the South Col in just one hour and climbing the north face of the Eiger in ten hours.
Habeler's impressive list of accomplishments includes climbing all eight thousand-meter peaks, including Cho Oyu, Nanga Parbat, Kangchenjunga, and Gasherbrum I. He also climbed Yerupaja Chico (6089 m) in the Peruvian Cordillera Huayhuash.
The ascent of Gasherbrum I, achieved with Messner in 1975, marked a significant turning point in mountaineering history. It was the first time an eight-thousander had been climbed in the alpine style, and it ushered in a new era of eight-thousander ascents.
Despite his many accomplishments, Habeler attempted to climb Everest again in 2000, but was forced to abandon his bid due to fluid in his lungs.
In addition to his mountaineering career, Habeler became a ski instructor at the age of 21 and founded the Peter Habeler Ski and Mountaineering School in his hometown of Mayrhofen, Austria. Although his son now runs the school, Habeler still teaches occasionally.
At the age of 74, Habeler repeated an ascent on the Eiger north face with David Lama, a testament to his enduring passion for mountaineering and his remarkable physical and mental abilities.
