Cesare Maestri was a renowned Italian mountaineer and writer, born on October 2, 1929, in Trento, and passed away on January 19, 2021, in Tione di Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige.
Maestri initially studied theater and art history in Rome before returning to Trento to work as a guide and ski instructor. He began climbing in the Brenta massif and went on to open many routes, often solo, in this massif and the Dolomites.
Nicknamed "the Spider of the Dolomites" for his exceptional climbing skills, Maestri was a disciple of Paul Preuss, known for his solo and uninsured climbing. He was the first to climb a listed route in sixth degree alone and the first to descend to the same degree.
Maestri's alpine career continued with open artificial routes using a large number of expansion pitons. His obsession with Cerro Torre grew stronger after his candidacy for the Italian expedition to K2 was refused in 1954.
Maestri's disappointment and pride fueled his determination, and he saw Cerro Torre as an opportunity to become better than the best. He returned to the mountain in 1959 with his Austrian companion, Toni Egger, and claimed to have reached the summit on January 31. However, the lack of witnesses or proof of success, along with the discovery of Toni Egger's camera containing no summit photos, raised suspicions about Maestri's claim.
Despite being accused of lying, Maestri remained steadfast in his conviction, and his stubbornness even made him a fragile and almost endearing figure.
